Israel, a land of many contrasts

Our trip to Israel was amazing! We booked and planned this trip almost a year in advance and tried to do as much reading as possible beforehand. Although we regarded the tour as a pilgrimage, we also wanted to see the historical and archaeological and of course it was important for us to try and understand the culture and politics of the region (not an easy task!).  We saw and experienced so much and I couldn't possibly put it all on one blog. Herewith some main points and only a fraction of the photographs we took:

10 and 11 May 2014

We arrived at the airport well in time and we are both somewhat apprehensive about what is awaiting us. Our flight - Turkish Airlines TK041 - leaves at 15:40pm.for Istanbul and turns out to be a lovely flight. The seats are fine, airline personnel very friendly and service outstanding. It is a long flight – 10 hours to Istanbul and we arrive at 5:25am. the next morning (South Africa is one hour behind), 11 May and we are reminded to set our watches. Our connecting flight is only at 9:15am. – a long wait at the airport. We try and change in the bathrooms and freshen up a bit, but it is still a long wait and while walking around I notice how many people are sleeping on seats and on the floor and just try to catch up on much needed sleep – that is travelling for you! Airports have an atmosphere and life of its own, and I am sure there are many stories to be told from there. 

Finally Turkish Air TK 794 leaves and we land at Tel Aviv at 11:20am. Our group leader arranges a taxi which takes us to Beit Shmuel Guest House in Eliyahu Shama Street, which is walking distance from both the Old and New City. It is a stone’s throw from the King David Hotel. This is our new home for the next 7 nights. All of us are exhausted! The guest house is not ready for us (we were warned of this, but there is nothing like a bit of hope), but they kindly allow us to store our luggage in a secure room and we all set off for downtown Jerusalem, which is also referred to as the New City.

Zion Square

Our first stop is at Zion Square, which is close to Ben Yehuda and Pakhalat Shirs Streets, supposedly the middle point in downtown Jerusalem; the liveliest part of modern Jerusalem. The square is known for its mass protests, demonstrations and even terrorist attacks. On our way there we walk past Davidka Square, one of the monuments for the Davidka – a mortar used in the War of Independence in 1948 which resulted in success for the Israeli army. Other sites of importance that we pass are the old British Police Station with its carved lions at the entrance, the Russian compound and we view the huge monolithic pillar from the end of the second temple era which was discovered in 1871.



Old British Police Station

We finally arrive at the Jewish Market – the Mahane Yehuda Market, which was built in 1929 to house the Jewish immigrants. There are lots of lovely delicacies, but we are cautioned that there will be more time for that later. The photo below shows a stallholder with delicious Halva, of which we are to buy quite a bit later, even to take home.

 

Halva stallholder at the Jewish Market



Overall view of the market

After this brief introduction, we head back to the guest house to book into our rooms. 

Later we all leave for the Old City – a fast walk through the Mamilla Mall allows us to enter the Old City at the Jaffa Gate and we go to the Christian Quarter. David takes us to the Felafel and Shwarma King. Their Shwarma’s are wonderful, but the size of their portions are much too large for us. It is also quite late at night and as time goes on we learn that is what the Israeli portions are like. They eat well and I believe it is all healthy food! 

Later that evening we have the privilege of watching the Old City from our bedroom window. It is spectacularly lit up and gives the impression of a fairy tale world.

The Old City at night

12 May 2014

The second day of our tour starts in earnest; we are up early and after breakfast we set off to the Old City – the Jewish and Armenian Quarters. We take a walk through the Bonei Yerushalyim Garden up the stairs to Mt Zion, which is traditionally also known as David’s Tomb and the Last Supper Room where Jesus and his disciples broke bread. 

Big is our disappointment as they are doing renovations and the Last Supper Room is closed off. We however put it on our ‘to-do list’ for another day. This area has always been regarded by the Jews as a holy site and they came here to pray in the time when they were denied access to the Wailing Wall, which is part of the Western Wall of the Temple Mount.

The Last Supper Room (upstairs)

Entrance to the site of King David's tomb
 

 At the Jerusalem Archaeological Museum we are treated to a multi-media presentation and view a large model of the First Temple and other archaeological finds. 2 Kings 24:13 tells us that Nebuchadnezzer removed all the treasures from the temple of the Lord and from the royal palace, and took away all the gold articles that Solomon King of Israel had made for the temple of the Lord.

The First Temple was destroyed by the Babylonians in 586 BC, rebuilt 70 years later by Herod to its former splendor and in 68AD the temple was burnt to the ground by the Romans.

This park displays amazing discoveries of Jerusalem during the Second Temple period. From here we walk outside and stand in awe - we are actually seeing the remains of the Old Temple! We notice the Robinson’s Arch – that is the remains of an arch on the south-western side of the Old Temple. It was built by Herod during the reconstruction of the second temple. The arch was destroyed during the Jewish revolt and was named after Edward Robinson who identified its remains in 1838. This area is adjacent to the Wailing Wall (western wall).  Robinson’s Arch can be seen on the photo below and we take a closer walk around the temple. The picture below shows Herodian Street where one can see the remains of the stairs which went up to the temple. There are also other fallen remains such as ritual baths and a residence.

 

Ruins of the steps at the Temple 

 

Remains of the Robinson's Arch can be seen on the wall of the Temple 

Matthew 4:5: Then the devil took him to the holy city and had him stand on the highest point of the temple. “If you are the Son of God,” he said, “Throw yourself down. For it is written: “'He will command his angels concerning you, and they will lift you up in their hands, so that you will not strike your foot against a stone.'” Jesus answered him, “It is also written: ‘Do not put the Lord your God to the test.’"

The stone in the photo below is believed to be the cornerstone of the Temple.
 

 

Cornerstone of the Temple

 

We walk past the Jerusalem Gardens and view the building and construction and discuss the various periods when alterations were made. From there we go to the Zion Gate, also referred to as the Tsiyon Gate, which was constructed in 1540 and gave direct access from the old city to the Holy sites on Mt Zion. We notice the old bullet holes in the walls where fierce fighting took place during the 1948 War of Independence.  

There is so much to see and it is confusing as we don’t stay long enough in one spot to get oriented. It feels as though we are in a warren of little streets and corners. We move on to the Jewish Quarter and get to the Dung Gate. Nehemiah describes it in Chapter 2:13 of the Bible when he suggested to the Jews to rebuild the wall: By night I went out through the Valley Gate toward the Jackal Well and the Dung Gate, examining the walls of Jerusalem, which had been broken down, and its gates, which had been destroyed by fire. This gate was once only the size of a doorway but was enlarged in 1948 and has become the main entrance/exit to the Jewish Quarters (see photo below). The photo immediately below shows the entrance to the Jerusalem Archaeological Museum, with the Old Temple in the background. A crowd of people dance and chant to music while following a young Jewish boy of thirteen, who is having his bar mitzvah.

 

The crowd of people are those celebrating the bar mitzvah

Dung Gate - see sign on left hand side, against the wall

Because excavations are not allowed on the Temple Mount itself, archaeologists have focused on the area outside, at the foot of the Herodian retaining walls. These have brought about valuable finds. The photo below, shows the area on the southern side of the Temple Mount with the stairs, some of which are still from the period when Jesus was alive and where He, his mother and disciples have probably walked. This staircase led from the City of David (the Ophel) to the public entrances and the Temple Mount (the Hulda Gates). The gateways are now blocked and the western gate and the stairway partially covered. The Gospel of Luke 2:22-24 also refers to the time when Mary and Joseph presented the infant Jesus (40 days after his birth)  to God at the Temple and this was more than likely the entrance they used. Many other such pilgrimages were made (read Luke 2:41-43).

 

Group photo on top of the stairs in front of the original entrance of the Temple

A quiet moment for us all - to think Jesus probably walked these stairs!
 

A highlight is a visit to the Western Wall, which lies west of the Temple Mount. This is a remnant of the great retaining wall around the platform of the Temple Mount and has been a place of prayer and devotion for Jews since the destruction of the 2^nd Temple by the Romans in 70 AD as it is the only fragment of the Great Temple to survive the Roman destruction. It is the most sacred structure of the Jewish people; they believe it was here where Abraham came to sacrifice his son, Isaac; it is also the place where Jacob slept when he dreamt of a ladder to heaven. It was then called Mount Moriah and its summit was where Solomon built the Temple on the land which his father, King David purchased. The temple was destroyed and rebuilt a number of times.

Until 700 years ago the entire length of the Western Wall was accessible but the city's Mamluke and Moslem conquerors built against it. When Jordan occupied Jerusalem in 1948 Jews were denied access to the Wall. In 1967 Jerusalem reunified and the Wall was restored to the Jewish people.

Father William our close friend and priest passed away recently and I promised Brenda that I will say a special prayer for her at the wall. I keep my promise. It is quite a spiritual moment for me as I write two prayers down on a small piece of paper: one for Brenda and one for me and Garry. It is a hustle and a bustle to get to the front of the wall. The men and women sections are separated and each group prays separately. I place my two prayers amongst the bricks in the Western Wall - where there are thousands of prayers visible.

 

Men's section at the Wailing Wall

 

Women's section at the Wailing Wall

Upon leaving the Western Wall we once again have to go through security (the same as when we arrived) and from there up the stairs and we come across the life-size Menorah, which has been a symbol of Judaism since ancient times and which was present in the first and second temples. This life-size Menorah has been made of gold (see photo below), created by the Temple Institute is intended for the future Third Temple.

 

Life-size Menorah

We find that there are no clear-cut lines between the different quarters (Christian, Jewish and Muslim) and it is very easy to move from the one to the other without noticing.

We walk through the Cardo which shows remnants of economic activities in the old Roman cities, with a wall mural that suggests what it might have looked like and we eventually get to the Wohl’s Archaeological Museum, also known as the Herodian Quarter.

 

Remains of the Cardo from Biblical times

Mural suggesting what the Cardo looked like at the time

 

It is our first introduction to an archaeological site which was unearthed 3 to 7 metres under ground level and it shows us something of the lifestyle of 2000 years ago with remnants of floor mosaics, large rooms, cisterns to collect water and ritual baths and is an example of the residential quarters of wealthy families, probably priests. A multi-media introduction, plaques and models give detailed explanations and complement the site; and from there we go to the Burnt House, which is a residential building from the Second Temple period. Many artefacts from this period are on display. We get a glimpse of the Broad Wall believed to be built by Hezekiah, which was discovered in 1970 during reconstruction of the Jewish Quarters in the Old City after the Six Day War. We finally end up going at the speed of light through the Arab Market, but Garry and I undertake to visit it more intensely later. Little do we realise at the time how the different markets inter-link and how often we would find ourselves lost in the Arab Market.

13 May 2014

I awake on the 3rd day in anticipation as we will be walking to the City of David. Prior to our trip I had read a historical novel on the life of King David, named The Stones by Eleanor Gustafson and enjoyed the book immensely. Although it was a novel, David’s life became much clearer to me. He was a warrior, a king, a lover, a husband and father, but mostly a man of God…but also very sinful. And for that reason the Lord prevented him from building his temple. That honour was bestowed on his son, Solomon. He fought Goliath and was appointed commander-in-chief of Saul’s army, but Saul eventually regarded David as his enemy and pursued him. After his death David was anointed as King and he reigned 1004-968 BC; he defeated the Philistines and conquered Jerusalem from the Jebusites, making it the capital of Israel.

After a hearty breakfast, we start our journey…

As we walk along, we look over the Hinnom and Kidron valleys respectively and I try to imagine what it was like years ago when it was still undeveloped, as this area played a vital role in attacks on the city and reference to them are often made in the Bible. Later during our stay we come across a picture of what I believe was the Hinnom Valley in years gone by.

Picture of the Hinnom Valley in old times

We notice the MontefioreWindmill that is quite a landmark in the distance. In the 19^th century the Jews immigrated en masse to Jerusalem and the Jewish Quarter of the Old City became rather crowded. Sir Moses Montefiore with the assistance of a wealthy Jew, Judah Touro initiated a neighbourhood outside the city walls and agriculture was encouraged.  



Hinnom Valley
 

Garry and I walked to the windmill one free morning

The main part of the day starts off with a visit to the City of David, which is outside the walls of the current Old City, close to the foot of the Western Wall. It is situated on a small hill to the south of the Temple Mount.

 

Excavations at the City of David

The settlement across the way from David’s City

The ruins of the Royal Quarter at David’s City. Now and excavation site.

 

The City of David was established here about 3000 years ago and as we arrive at the site we are greeted by a splendid harp which forms part of the venue’s wall. David was renowned as a psalmist, and many remember him as such, rather than the warrior and king that he was. 

Sign indicating the City of David

  

Upon arrival we are entertained to a 3D movie, offering a virtual tour of the City of David and it gives one a feeling for that period. From the lookout post we have a view of the mountains that surround the city – from the Kidron valley to the Temple Mount on Mount Moriah. We get a glimpse of the Mount of Olives, but that is a highlight for another day. We notice the settlements that are built all around; the cemetery against the mountain side – apparently the oldest Jewish cemetery in the world and still in use today; the Millo, a stone structure, used to make better use of the rising land, and an example of an Ophel is also pointed out to us. The latter refers to a swell or rise to a higher landscape. It was a practice in Biblical times and the name given to a part of a settlement or city that has been elevated – it is basically a man-made hill. In this instance it is part of the eastern hill, between the City of David and the Temple Mount. It is mentioned in a number of places in the Bible:

David then took up residence in the fortress and called it the City of David. He built up the area around it, from the supporting terraces inward. And he became more and more powerful, because the Lord God Almighty was with him. – 2 Samuel 5:9.

Jotham rebuilt the Upper Gate of the temple of the Lord and did extensive work on the wall at the hill of Ophel – 2 Chronicles 27:4. 

Afterwards he [Manasseh] rebuilt the outer wall of the City of David, west of the Gihon spring in the valley, as far as the entrance of the Fish Gate and encircling the hill of Ophel, he also made it much higher. He stationed military commanders in all the fortified cities in Judah. – 2 Chronicles 33:14 

A sign at the lookout post has the following inscription: “The Kidron Valley is the boundary between the living, in the City of David, and the dead, buried on the Mount of Olives across the way. Archaeologists surveyed approximately 50 burial caves in the village of Silwan that were part of the cemetery of Jerusalem during the First Temple period. The burial sites, carved into the mountain above the Kidron Valley served generations of aristocratic families in the kingdom of Judah. Their entrance ways were carved meticulously, their architectural plans precise and their stonework of the highest quality. Some bear the remains of ancient Hebrew inscriptions.”

 

Ancient Jewish cemetery and the site still being used


 

 

Burial caves underneath the homes at the foot of the respective properties.

 

From here we walk down towards Warren’s Shaft where we have the privilege to see the water system. Warren’s Shaft is the name given to the tunnel after it was discovered beneath the city walls by the British explorer Captain Charles Warren. It leads to a 13-meter deep shaft. Years later other findings were made namely the large pool in the rocks near the Gihon Spring (one of the largest springs in the mountain area), which led one to believe that the inhabitants of the city descended to the fortified pool outside the city walls through the secret tunnel to draw their water.

Warren's Shaft. The photos just can't capture the depth of the shaft

 

We enter Hezekiah's tunnel and initially walk thigh-deep in water, but afterwards it drops to ankle-deep and the walk is about 500 meters where we finally exit at the Byzantine pool of Siloam. It is pitch dark inside the tunnel and we all have headlamps on.

 

Walking down into the tunnel in single file, down steep steps

 

Initially the water was thigh-deep but later only the water reached my ankles

 

After lunch we proceed to Jaffa Gate on the western wall of the Old City; David Street is the main route through it. It gives access to the ramparts of the city walls. Just inside Jaffa Gate is Omar ibn el-khattab Square, which was a focal point of the old city life. We end up at the Citadel. There is a huge model of the old city and it gives one perspective of its enormity, the walls around the Temple and the city which are different and can be confusing to grasp at times.

 

A life-size model of the Old City

 

We climb up to the rooftop and we have magnificent 360 degree-views of Jerusalem from there. Later that evening, Garry and I walk around the Old City and end up going for dinner at a lovely restaurant called Versavee. We have wine, beer, kebabs and vegetables. 

14 May 2014

This 4th day of our trip is packed with activity! We are all ready and on time, and when Mohammed (our driver) arrives we pile into his bus. We start off in a north-easterly direction towards the Judean desert and stop at a look-out point to see the view. It touches me deeply, as according to the Bible much of Jesus’ time was spent in this area. It was also in this desert where Jesus was tempted by Satan. Matthew 4:8-10: Again, the devil took him to a very high mountain and showed him all the kingdoms of the world and their splendor. "All this I will give you," he said, "if you will bow down and worship me." Jesus said to him, "Away from me, Satan! For it is written: 'Worship the Lord your God, and serve him only.'"

 

Magnificent view of the desert
 

There are Bedouins all around in the area and it reminds one of home as the tents they lived in previously have changed to ‘shacks’ as we know them in South Africa, which means they are no longer ‘nomads’ in the true sense of the word. From there we go to the top where the St George’s Monastery is situated. It is beautiful! This monastery is built in the Wadi Qelt Canyon which goes from west to east and along it runs the main route from Jericho to Jerusalem. We don’t have much time, but Garry and I really want to touch the old Jericho footpath and we start jogging down towards the gorge. Of course we are running out of time and still have to run up again. In our haste we didn’t take a water bottle and the temperature is past comfortable, but we have a mission to complete and we find the exercise exhilarating.

 

Road winding down into the gorge where the monastery was built

The St George’s Orthodox Monastery was built in the 6^th century and is presently occupied by Greek Orthodox monks. Alongside it is the old roman road to Jericho, which we believe Jesus had travelled many times. Unfortunately we don’t have time to visit the monastery, which is open to visitors, but I include some photos of its spectacular position.

Garry on what we believe is the old road to Jericho

 

See how deep in the mountains the monastery is located - absolutely magnificent!

The caves can bee seen on the right of the photo, where some Bedouins live
 

From there we travel north to Qumran, but before we reach it, we pass a Bedouin and his camel at a sign that says “Sea Level” and we stop. I grab the opportunity to get onto the camel for ride.

 

 

 

 

And then we get our first glimpse of the Dead Sea.

 

 

 Arriving at Qumran we are greeted by an unexpected site. This is where John the Baptist spent a great part of his life and it is the place where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. The area was already populated 800 BC but was made famous by the Essenes, a sect at the time, who lived a secluded life at Qumran towards 200 BC where they studied, wrote the sea scrolls and preserved them. Over time there were earth quakes, the Essenes were dispersed, Romans lived there, and the site was eventually disbanded and forgotten. There was interest again after 1947 when Bedouin shepherds found some ancient scrolls in a cave close by. After that the site has been of interest to archaeologists and many digs took place here.

 

The caves where the scrolls were found can be seen clearly

The scrolls (their library) were hidden in jars in the caves for nearly two thousand years and included books of the Old Testament, the Apocrypha and the sect’s own works. Some of the scrolls can be viewed at the Shrine of the Book, the Israeli Museum in Jerusalem, which is on our program for later during our visit to Israel.

 

Storage jars in which scrolls were preserved

 

From the excavations by the archaeologists, who then obviously took an interest in the area, one gets a sense of the communal life of the Essenes. There are a number of ritual baths, an assembly hall, central dining room, kitchen, a watch tower, a stable, a pottery workshop and of course their writing room, which is referred to as a Scriptorium. This is obviously where most of the scrolls were written. At present it falls under the Israel Nature and Parks Authority who has developed and preserved the area for tourists. 

Kiln at Qumran with a sign that reads: “This kiln was used to fire the pottery utensils manufactured in the potter’s workshop.”

 

Ritual baths were excavated at Qumran
 

The ruins of Qumran are situated on a barren area between the Judean desert and the Dead Sea. While looking at it one wonders what it looked like so many years ago and what made them settle there specifically.

A sign posted at the site reads as follows:

Bedouins discovered this cave in August of 1952. Fourteen thousand fragments of scrolls were unearthed as they sifted through the dust within. Archaeologists who reached the cave later, uncovered an additional 1,000 fragments. Scholars believe that a Roman soldier who entered the cave in 68CE tore the scrolls intentionally and that later raves (sic) by animals and climate inflicted further damage. As researchers proceeded, the fragments of these scrolls were pieced together to produce 530 different scrolls. Publication of these scrolls was completed in 2001. Below is an view of the area, which shows its absolute magnificence.

 

view of the area, with the Dead Sea in the background

From here we travel further south along the Dead Sea and finally get to another highlight, namely Masada. We are once again entertained to a model and then we go up to the mountain by cable car instead of walking up the Snake Path, which circles its way up the mountain.

Taking the cable car up to Masada (instead of walking up the Snake Route)

Masada is a mountain in Southern Israel, about 30 miles south of Jerusalem. On the east is the Dead Sea, and all around it is desert. It is isolated and 14,000 feet above the desert floor. Herod, who was king of Judea and ruled on behalf of the Romans, built his fortress on this mountain. It was one of many fortresses across his kingdom. Herod had a persecution complex and was in fear of his Jewish subjects, whom he mistreated.  

 

Masada covered 18 acres and was not only a fortress but also a luxury retreat. It had two palaces; one acted as his official residence. The walls were 18 feet high and 12 feet thick. On the northern end of the mountain was his private villa, which stretched over 3 levels. It has been described as ‘a tremendous feat of engineering.’ The top level housed his living quarters, the middle level had luxury terraces and they were joined by a stone staircase. It had sweeping views across the desert. There were a number of bath houses; some smaller – obviously for private use. All over the palaces there are remnants of intricate mosaic floors which fit in with Herod’s love for architecture and the arts. In the time of Herod’s life, Masada was never challenged and it was only 70 years after his death that it achieved fame.  

At the time the Romans ruled Judea, but their rule was resented because of their pagan practices and corruption. Radical resistance started to build up and there were a number of such groups, which were called ‘zealots’. After the crucifixion of Jesus these feelings came to a head and in 66 AD the Jews finally rose up, but they were divided among themselves as many rebel groups existed in Jerusalem. The Sicarii was one such group and they targeted anyone who was regarded as a Roman sympathiser. They eventually conquered a small army of Romans who lived on Masada and occupied Herod’s fortress. In the 7 years that they lived there, they extended some of the buildings as additional living quarters were needed for their approximate 1000 men; they built walls within walls to safeguard themselves, and built among others, a synagogue.  

Eventually the Romans sent in Vespasian with an army of 70 000 troops and he began to address the revolt. They marched to Masada, encamped their army there, and built a wall around the whole mountain as they were determined to root out the evil of the Sicarii.  

The end of the story is that the Sicarii’s were trapped on the mountain and they eventually went into a suicide pact when the Romans attacked them, although the suicide version has been disputed by many historians over time.  

One of the extra-ordinary aspects of this mountain fortress was its water cisterns, some which are still visible today. A poster displays the following information: 
 

‘“At each spot used for habitation, both on the summit and about the palace, as also before the wall, he had cut out in the rock numerous large tanks, as reservoirs for water, thus procuring a supply as ample as where springs are available.” – Josephus Flavius 

The solution of the water problem in the desert fortress is undoubtedly one of the wonders of Masada. In order to survive on the mountain, Herod quarried numerous cisterns on the summit and the northwestern slope. Rainwater that flowed in the floods in the nearby streams was stored here. The water was collected by a system of dams and two aqueducts, parts of which can be seen to this day. Two rows of cistern were dug in the slope, eight in the upper row and four in the lower, that contained a total of 40,000 cubic meters of water. From the cisterns two paths led up to the mountain, one from the upper row to the Water Gate in the northwest of the mountain and the other from the lower row to the Snake Path Gate in the east. Convoys of animals brought the water up to Masada along these paths. When they reached the summit, the water was poured into a system of channels leading into the cisterns throughout the mountain. But a lover of life like Herod would not be content merely with drinking water. The water planning of Masada also included attention to hygiene and recreation. As we can see from the bathhouses and the swimming pool located in the southern part of the mountain.’  

Below are remnants of King Herod’s splendour.

One of Herod's rooms with the mosaic floor still reasonably intact

Luxury rooms on the northern end of the mountain
 

View over the Dead Sea from the top of Masada

The area below Masada where the Romans camped, strategizing their attack

From Masada we leave for our final treat of the day – a swim in die Dead Sea. What an experience! But the word ‘swim’ is actually inaccurate as one cannot swim, one can only float. The water is salty, yet appears to have an oily layer on top. Below the water, on the rocks there are crystals and we manage to break some pieces off, which will obviously be treasured at home as memorabilia.

 

I'm floating in the Dead Sea. Absolutely amazing!

The last quick stop is the Adullam cave where David hid from Saul. 1 Samuel 22:1: David left Gath and escaped to the cave of Adullam. When his brothers and his father's household heard about it, they went down to him there. 

The area of the Adullam Cave

 

Once back in Jerusalem, Garry and I have a lovely dinner at a place called Solo in downtown Jerusalem. They set a small table for us on the veranda overlooking the busy street below. It is cosy and we have a magnificent meal of oven-baked brinjal with tahini sauce – out of this world – followed by a lovely fish dish, but as usual it is all too much to eat.

 

Brinjal with Tahini Sauce. Yummie!

We were sitting upstairs on the balcony just under the Solo sign

 

It's still early, but this area (below the restaurant where we ate) will soon fill up and be buzzing
 

15 May 2014

 

Our 5th day turns out to be less hectic. We start out early towards the Bible Society, but they only open later in the morning and instead we take the train to our next destination, namely the Yad Vashem Holocaust Museum. A sign outside the Yad Vashem quotes Ezekiel 37:14: I will put my breath into you and you shall live again, and I will set you upon your own soil…

A statue in the park outside Yad Vashem, which I believe depicts the horror of the Holocaust.

The Holocaust is an interest of both Garry and I, but we are rushed for time and cannot examine everything that we want to do. We put it on our ‘to do’ list for another day, but we are not sure if we will get to it as it is quite out of the way. From there we go to the Children’s Memorial, walk in the gardens and finally have lunch in the Wold Zionist Organisations – Mt Herzl’ s Memorial Park.

 From there we go to the Israeli Museum where we see a life size model of Jerusalem during the 2^nd Temple Period and then off to the Shrine of the book – where we can examine the Dead Sea Scrolls – and the Archaeology Wing. No photos are allowed inside. It is extremely interesting, but definitely warrants a longer visit. The building is in the shape of a jar such as where the scrolls were found.

 

Life size model of Jerusalem during 2nd Temple period

  

Shrine of the Book. The building is in the shape of a jar such as where the scrolls were found
 

For dinner Garry and I go to the Bardoni Jerusalem, a lovely Lebanese Restaurant where we are treated to outstanding food. Falafel to die for, but of course they take us for a ride with the bill as we don’t order from the menu. Totally exorbitant, but still it was a huge treat.

 

I couldn't believe it. We can hardly finish our meal and they keep on refilling the plates.

As we get back to the guest house we see disco lights flashing and hear loud music playing at the Old City and although we are exhausted we dash out to go and have a look. It is a cultural music festival as part of Israel’s 66 year celebrations and we stay for a while to watch and listen to the live music and to watch the people go by. What a vibe and the lit up city is unbelievably beautiful.

 

People milling around at night in the Mamilla Mall

16 May 2014

 

Our 6th day proves to be busy once again. We set out and walk past the northern side of the wall of Jerusalem. We notice that the building next to the municipality have many old bullet holes from the time when the Jordan forces occupied the city; where we are walking now it was no-man’s land and a ‘free for all.’ We pass the New Gate, which was built to accommodate the many pilgrims who lived across the road. From here we go into the Arab area and we are told to be aware of pick-pockets. We walk to the Damascus Gate where there are steps leading down to the Roman Plaza where there is a statue of Emperor Hadrian. Unfortunately the Roman Plaza is being renovated and is closed to the public. This area is very important as attacks were often from the North.  

We eventually arrive at the Garden Tomb – one of the many highlights of the tour.

 

The piece of ground where the tomb is situated was discovered in the 19^th century and is currently owned and maintained by the Garden Tomb (Jerusalem) Association, based in the United Kingdom. The site is adjacent to a rocky escarpment, which resembles a skull, believed by many to be Golgotha.  

Place of the skull
 

 This is believed to be the garden and sepulchre of Joseph of Arimathea, who was a rich man – a leader and honoured member of the Jewish council, who asked for permission to bury Jesus. It is one of two sites where the crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus Christ could have taken place (the other is the Church of Sepulchre in the Old City). John describes the place where Jesus was buried as: At the place where Jesus was crucified there was a garden, and in the garden a new tomb, in which on one had never been laid – John 19:41. 

Water cistern in the garden

 The site has a winepress and a big water cistern which many believe as a sign that a garden was once there. The tomb in the garden believed to be that of Jesus Christ has a stone groove running along the ground outside, which apparently indicates that it could have held a large stone. That corresponds to the Bible which tells us that a stone was rolled over the entrance.

Overview of the entrance to the Garden Tomb

Inside the tomb, believed to be that of Jesus

Finally Pilate handed him over to them to be crucified. So the soldiers took charge of Jesus. Carrying his own cross, he went out to the place of the Skull (which in Aramaic is called Golgotha). Here they crucified him and with him two others – one on each side and Jesus in the middle – John 19: 16-18.

From this site we move on to Shachem/Nablus Road where we view what is believed to be part of the 3^rd wall, built by Jews but overseen by the Romans and we go to a nearby local (Arab) taxi rank and take a taxi to Bethpage Church. This is believed to be the site where Jesus rode a donkey into Jerusalem (Palm Sunday). The photo below shows the beautiful mural inside the church, which depicts Jesus on the donkey.

Mural at Bethpage Church

 

We are now on the eastern side of the Old City in Jerusalem and walk up the hill towards the Mt of Olives – a rather steep walk! This is where the Lord’s ascension took place and where it is believed that his return will be. Read Zechariah 14:4. 

We arrive at the Church of the Pater Noster (Sanctuary of the Eleona), just as they close for lunch. I have the privilege of snapping a quick picture, but what is remarkable about this church is that it has plaques of the “Our Father” prayer in 100 different languages. Its significance is that it is believed to be the site where one of Jesus’ disciples asked him how he should pray. “He said to them, “when you pray, say: “Father, hallowed be your name, your kingdom come. Give us each day our daily bread. Forgive us our sins, for we also forgive everyone who sins against us. And lead us not into temptation”– Luke 11 2-4.
 

As we look down the valley we are reminded of prophesies in the Bible:

Jerusalem’s enemies to be destroyed: “I am going to make Jerusalem a cup that sends all the surrounding peoples reeling. Judah will be besieged as well as Jerusalem. On that day, when all the nations of the earth are gathered against her, I will make Jerusalem an immovable rock for all the nations. All who try to move it will injure themselves” – Zechariah 12:2-3.

The Lord comes and Reigns: On that day his feet will stand on the Mount of Olives, east of Jerusalem, and the Mount of Olives will be split in two from east to west, forming a great valley, with half of the mountain moving north and half moving south – Zechariah 14:4.

In my opinion the whole of Zechariah 14 should be read at this point in time. 

We spend lunchtime on the Mt of Olives, where one has a splendid view of Jerusalem, but it is a Friday and the prayers coming from the mosque are reverberating over the valley, making any quiet time for us virtually impossible. However, the Mount of Olives is mentioned often in the Bible. The Mount itself is home to burial caves from the First and Second Temple periods respectively. 

 

After lunch we start walking down towards the Old City. We arrive at the Sanctuary Dominus Flevit (meaning the Lord wept). They are not open yet after lunch but allow us briefly inside. This is the site where Jesus supposedly came to weep before he was crucified.  

When the church was built here archaeologists discovered artifacts dating back to the Canaanite period and the 2^nd Temple era. We see a tomb with a number of ossuaries (small chests) which are meant to be the final resting place for a person’s skeletal remains. Where burial space was scarce, the body was first buried in a temporary grave and the skeletal remains later transferred to an ossuary. 

 

Tomb with many ossuaries

We continue our downward walk until we eventually come to the Garden of Gethsemane. Currently the site belongs to the Franciscans and a sign reads: “Croatians Paul, Anthony and James, Christians from Sarajevo Knights of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem in the year of our Lord 1681 purchased the Garden of Gethsemane and donated it to the Franciscans.”

Gethsemane gets its name from ‘Gat’ and ‘Shemanim’ which means (olive) Oil Press. It is the name of a natural grotto next to the ‘Tomb of Mary’ and her Assumption. Jesus often visited the grotto and it was here where he was betrayed and arrested. Over time the whole area at the foot of Mount Olives was referred to as Gethsemane. 

 

Garden of Gethsemane

 

The site is also referred to as the Sanctuary of the Agony of Jesus Christ. The church, The Basilica of the Agony was completed in 1924, and is the third on this site after churches were built by the Byzantines and the Crusaders respectively. The Basilica of Agony was built to recall how Jesus went to the ‘place’ on the Mount of Olives and prayed asking his Father if it was His will that ‘the cup be taken from him’, but he was strengthened: And being in anguish, he prayed more earnestly and his sweat was like drops of blood falling to the ground – Luke 22:44.
 

Garry and I have a special time here. We do some readings and we remember our friends Brenda and the late Father Will in prayer.

The following signs are displayed there:

My father, if it be possible, let this cup pass from me; nevertheless not as I will, but as thou wilt - Matthew 26:39.

“Could you not watch with me one hour? Watch and pray that you may not enter into temptation – Matthew 26:40-41”

“With his prayer “Yes Father” and the total surrender of His will, Jesus triumphed in the darkest night of temptation and suffering.

He thus showed us that by consenting to the will of God and committing ourselves to it, we too shall be led out of the darkness into the light of victory.”

Basilica of Gethsemane

 

Church at Gethsemane. See how close to the road it is in modern times

 It is late afternoon already but we carry on towards the Old City and finally get to Lion’s Gate, also referred to as St Stephen’s Gate, which is where Stephen was apparently stoned.

We have a look at Nehemiah’s wall repairs which took place in 580BC. It is very confusing, especially as sometimes reference is made to the Temple walls and sometimes to the City walls (which are not the same), but some of the history of the Temple, Jerusalem and the city walls are the following:
 

950 BC Solomon built the first temple and some walls.

586 BC The Babylonians destroyed the temple and city walls.

516 BC The Jews return and rebuild the temple.

444 BC Nehemiah rebuilt some of the city walls through the exiled Israelites who returned from Babylon.

141 BC Hasmonian expanded Jerusalem’s western wall.

376 BC Herod restructures the 2^nd Temple, added to it and added retaining walls.

70 AD The Romans destroyed the 2^nd Temple and Jerusalem.

135 AD The Romans rebuilt the city of Jerusalem.

691 AD Muslims build the Dome of the Rock where the Temple was before.

1100 was the period of the Crusaders and a whole lot of changes took place.

1212 Ayyubid built the city walls.

1250 The Muslims and Caliph destroyed the walls of Jerusalem.

1538-1541 Suleman the Magnificent rebuilds the walls.

The next stop is the Pool of Bethesda at St Anne’s church. This area marks the birthplace of the Virgin Mary, daughter of St Anne and Joachim. The church is next to the medicinal baths where Jesus healed the lame man as described in John 5:1-13.

Beautiful garden next to St Anne's Church

A snapshot of Garry in the gardens

The remains of the pool of Bethesda can be seen below. A Sign reads: The BIG POOLS, 13 m deep, were used to collect the rainwater coming from the hills for the service of the TEMPLE. People did not bathe in these pools. The sheep were not washed in them. It was near the SMALL MEDICINAL BATHS that Jesus met and healed the paralytic (John 5).

Remains of the pool of Bethesda

 The photo below is taken inside St Anne’s church. There was a group of people, we believe from Thailand, who sang beautifully and added to that, this church has phenomenal acoustics. If you whisper a song it comes out loud and clear. Unbelievable…!

From here we go to the Via Dolorosa, the Stations of the Cross. It begins in the Muslim Quarter and ends at the Holy Sepulchre Church, also known as Golgotha. That is the 2^nd alternative to Christ’s crucifixion. The Stations of the Cross depicts the different events as Jesus carried his cross from the place where Pontius Pilate condemned Him to the place of crucifixion at Golgotha and entombment. At the time this would have been outside the walls of the city.

 

It is Friday afternoon and the area is crowded and people are milling around to full capacity. In the midst of this the Franciscan Monks have their procession on Friday afternoons at 4 o’clock and everyone follows them. On the way we pass a number of churches. Of real importance is the Franciscan Convent of the Flagellation and the Condemnation. A quick walk-through shows a beautiful church. On our way to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre we passed the different stations and other sites of importance.

 

A site depicting all the Stations of the Cross

  

Procession of Franciscan Monks

A sign at the Franciscan Convent of the Flagellation reads: “In this area northwest of the Temple Mount there stood in the 2^nd century BC a tower called “Baris”. That is, “Fortress”. About 35 BC Herod the Great built the Fortress Antonia on this site and so named it in honour of the Roman Triumvirate member, Mark Anthony. The Historian Josephus Flavius describes the fortress as a true Royal Palace with four towers and a stairway for communication with the temple.

“A medieval tradition identified the Fortress Antonia with the Pretorium of Pilate and placed the scourging and condemnation of Jesus Christ to death on this site.

 

“This enclosure contains two sanctuaries. To the right of the entrance is the Church of the Flagellation or Scourging. To the left is the Church of Condemnation…”

 

The sign further gives information on the Archaeological Museum and its findings.

 
Finally we arrive at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This site first held a temple built by the Roman emperor Hadrian and was a pagan site. Emperor Constantine later replaced this with a church and the motivation was that it was the place where Jesus was crucified and buried. After the Roman buildings were demolished rock-cut tombs were discovered and one of them was identified as that of Joseph of Armithea. Little of the original structure remained after it was burnt and looted by the Persians in 614, rebuilt only to be hit by an earthquake in 808, and destroyed in 1009 by Caliph al-Hakim. Most of the present building was reconstructed by the Crusaders. 

 

Inside the Church of Flagellation

 

Tomb to be the other alternative to Jesus' burial site is said to be here underneath the Sepulchre Church

 

A very busy day comes to an end, but it is late Friday afternoon and at sunset Shabbat starts (until sunset the next day). We are booked for a Shabbat Dinner at the Beit Shmuel Guest House where we stay. Before mealtime, Sidney, Dianne, Gary and I go for a drink to unwind, and it really helps us to relax! The photo below is our hearty king size meal at the guest house later the evening and on the right is the group. Groups of young people arrive and it is beautiful to see them interact and we listen to them singing cultural songs and songs of worship.

Shabbat dinner on Friday Evening at the guest house

17 May 2014

Day 7 arrives. It is Shabbat, which started at sunset on Friday and will continue until sunset tonight. The Sabbath day is Biblical and the Jews follow it strictly. See Leviticus 23:3: There are six days wen you may work, but the seventh day is a Sabbath of rest, a day of sacred assembly. You are not to do any work; wherever you live, it is a Sabbath to the Lord. Shabbat Shalom! That means very few places of interest are open. We get the full impact of this at breakfast. Only the most basic food (probably prepared the previous day). There is no percolated coffee as that is regarded as work. I have to contend with instant coffee from a luke-warm urn. 

We all go to the Jerusalem Great Synagogue and it is quite an experience for me. The women and men sit separately (women upstairs and men downstairs). Garry says the men's section was abuzz with talking and men walking around. We found the women section quiet with the women concentrating and following the readings.

As we walk along the streets everything is quiet and it reminds me a bit of South Africa in the old days when Sundays were regarded as holy and very few shops were open. We eventually find a little restaurant open in the suburbs and we have coffee and juice with some of our fellow travelers, after which we all go our own individual ways. Garry and I go back to the Old City and look at sites we wanted to revisit. We also walk by the Western Wall of the Old City and try and work out the dates:

1800 BC City walls were built
950 BC Temple and some city walls built by Solomon
586 BC Temple and city walls destroyed by Babylonians
516 BC Temple rebuilt by returning Jews (from exile)
444 BC City walls rebuilt by Nehemia who returned to Babylon
141 BC City western wall expanded by Hasmonians
37 BC Second Temple restructured and added to it and the retaining walls were addressed
70 AD City of Jerusalem rebuilt by Romans
691 AD Dome of the Rock was built by Muslims where the Temple was before.
1100 The time of the Crusaders
1212 City walls built by Ayyubid) Saladin)
1219 Ayyubid broke down the city walls
1250 City walls destroyed by Caliph (Muslim)
1538-1541 City walls rebuilt by Suleman the Magnificent (Ottoman Turks).

All the shops open after sunset and the city comes to life again.

18 May 2014

This is the 8th day of our trip and we are up early as we are going north. We have to take clothes for 3 days as we are staying at Kerei Deshe Guest House on the shores of the Sea of Galilee. Our current guest house (in Jerusalem) is kind enough to store the rest of our luggage. Mohammed once again fetches us, but asks that we stick to time as he has another appointment in Jerusalem, late afternoon.  We drive north, past Ramla, towards Tel Aviv and then along the Mediterranean Coast towards Haifer to Caesarea (it lies on the northern side of Sharon). Fruit trees, vegetable tunnels and other agriculture are evident as we drive along and it proves that a land so barren can in fact provide ample food.

We enter the site at Caesarea's National Park and it stretches from the Roman theatre in the south to the Crusader city in the north. Among others it includes the remains of the Roman Praetorium, its upper palace, the hippodrome and a theater. Herod's amphitheatre, was the first of its kind in Israel and was built between 22-20 BC. Over time it underwent several alterations and it was eventually closed down by the Christian Byzantine rules in 5 AD.

 

Back of the theater



Remains of the Praetorium

From here we walk along the road and cross over a little bridge towards a fort built by the Crusaders many years later. From there on we accessed the remains of Herod's Harbor. A sign there reads: The construction of the harbor was a far-reaching enterprise, involving artificial islands built in the open sea and serving as bases for piers and breakwaters. Apparently, the raw material and technology came with the Roman engineers sent by Emperor Augustus to assist Herod's architects
with the project.

Paul stayed here for two years before he embarked on his journey to Asia. The market place is apparently where he often preached.

From there we travel inland towards Megiddo. Israel Various texts in the Bible refer to Megiddo, with the most important being John's apocalyptic vision of the battle between the forces of good and evil and God's final reign on earth, Revelation 16:16: Then they gathered the kings together to the place that in Hebrew is called Armageddon. This chapter describes God's final judgment on the earth. At this point it is also good to read Zechariah 14, which describes this prophet's vision of the day the Lord is coming.

Other texts that also refer to Megiddo are: Joshua 12:12 and 21, Joshua 17:11-13,  Judges 1:27, 5:19, 1 Kings 9:15 refer to Solomon building Megiddo (one of three cities that he built, the other being Hazor and Gezer apart from the Lord's temple, his own palace and the wall of Jerusalem); 2 Kings 9:27; 2 Kings 23:30.  Megiddo was one of the Canaanite cities that the tribe of Manasseh was unable to take over, but Joshua defeated some of the Canaanite kings. In 1 Kings 14:25-26 Megiddo is one of the conquests of Pharaoh Shishak.

Tel Megiddo was declared a World Heritage Site. A 'tell' refers to an area which became a hill because many civilizations were built on top of each other over a period of time.  Tel Megiddo National Park encompasses the archaeological mound of Megiddo, an area of about 15 acres which rises about 60 meters above its surroundings.

In Biblical times Megiddo's location and its many springs and fertile soil made it an area that was sought after and many battles were fought here.

Many excavations have been done on this site and it comprises among others, a reservoir, the city gate, palaces, stables, temple area, dwellings, a silo and a water system.

A model of the Tell Megiddo

View over the valley from the Tel Megiddo's outlook post

Going down into the amazing water system at Megiddo

After leaving this site, we drive further north and see Mount Tabor which is mentioned in Psalms. It is believed that this is the sit of the transfiguration of Jesus (read Matthew 17:1-3, Mark 9:2-13 and Luke 9:28-36). The Biblical battle over the Canaanites started at Mount Tabor and it was here where Deborah gathered the men of Israel and called them to fight in the name of God. A site with strategic value and where the three tribes of Israel split. 

We stop briefly at Mount Precipice, also known as Mount of Precipitation or Mount of the Leap of the Lord. It is believed that this is the site which is referred to in Luke 4:29-30 (where the people wanted to throw Jesus down the cliff when they didn't accept him as the Messiah in his hometown). The following sign is displayed there: Rising above the southern part of the Nazareth Mountain Mt of Precipice (397 meters) look out over Nazareth, Mt Tabor and Yizrael valley at its foot. Mount of Precipice is also known as "the leaping mountain" - according to old tradition, Jesus jumped from this mountain when fleeing his pursuers.

On route we drove through Nazareth but from the top of Mt Precipice one can see Nazareth, the city where Jesus grew up.  What is amazing, if one reads Acts one will notice that the people of the time walked between Nazareth and Jerusalem - incomprehensible in modern times!

View from Mt Precipice. See Nazareth in the background

Next on our agenda is the Zippori National Park. Zippori is not mentioned in the New Testament, and the early Christian sources rarely refer to it, but it is about 6 km northwest of Nazareth, on a hill above the Bet Netofah Valley. During the Byzantine period, when Christianity was the official religion of the empire, the city retained a Jewish majority, but in the 5th century this changed and Christians became more prominent in the city. It could have been during this period that Christians started to identify Zippori as the home of Joachim and Anne, the parents of Mary, Jesus' mother. In recognition of this, the Crusaders built the Church of St Anne in Zippori.

Many excavations were done here and once again we see a model of the city. We see remains of the buildings, especially of what must have been a spectacular mansion, but I am most impressed by the ancient water system.

Mosaic floor in remains of the ancient mansion at zippori

Tunnel down to the ancient water system at Zippori
 

We are quite inland now and heading towards the Sea of Galilee. Our next stop is briefly at Mt Arbel.
An earthquake divided the mountain and one can see the caves where the Zealots hid in. In the background the Sea of Galilee is visible. Our first glimpse of it!

Mt Arbel. See the caves where the Zealots hid and in the background our first sighting of the Sea of Galilee

 

After a long day, we finally arrive at our guest house, Kare Deishe (which means Meadows of Grass) on the western shores of the Sea of Galilee. This lake is referred to by different names in the Bible: in the Old Testament refers to the Sea of Chinnereth in Numbers 34:11, Joshua 12:3 and 13:27 and the Lake of Gennesareth (Genessaret) in Luke 5:1 and it is called the Sea of Tiberias in John 6:1 and 21:1. Jesus spent 3 years of his ministry here. It is the largest freshwater lake in Israel and is about 21 km long and 13 km wide.

Kare Deishe

 

Sea of Galilee from the banks of Kare Deishe

19 May 2014

This is the 9th day of our trip and our second day up north. The weather is warm and humid, but today we start out by walking from the guest house to Kibbutz Ginesar at Genneserat, which is about a 5 km walk. We have noticed green vegetation around us which is remarkable in this arid country and one of the pamphlets I studied gives the credit to the Society for the Preservation of Nature in Israel and other environmental organizations that work hard to ensure that Israel's plants, wildlife, landscapes and historic sites are safeguarded. Of interest is that Israel is one of the few countries in the world where it is an offense to pick wild flowers.

I walk with David towards Gennesaret.
 

We are situated on the western shores and walk in a northerly direction. From Genneserat we take a boat trip on the Sea of Galilee. It is spectacular and we head in the direction of Capernaum but come back to our point of departure. I find this trip very emotional. To think this is where Jesus did so much of his work and performed miracles, many of which did not survive. Jesus makes reference to Capernaum in the Bible when he says in Matthew 11:22-23: But I tell, it will be more bearable for Tyre and Sidon on the day of Judgment than for you. And you, Capernaum, will you be lifted up to the skies? No, you will go down to the depths. What Jesus was saying was that many evil cities did not survive, but the people of Bethsaida, Korazin and Capernaum had no excuse as they experienced him firsthand and yet did not believe or repent of their sins.                               

 

On the Holy Land boat on the Sea of Galilee. What an incredible moment!

From here we go to the Ginnosar - Yigal Alon Museum where the remains of the Ancient Sea of Galilee Boat is housed. This so-called "Jesus Boat" was found in 1986 in the Sea of Galilee after a severe drought which resulted in low water levels. The 7-meter long boat was buried in, but at the same time also protected, by the sediment in the seabed. The rescue operation took eleven days. The weak and waterlogged hull was packaged in a cocoon of fiberglass and foam and then floated to the Yigal Allon Centre where it underwent and extensive and carefully monitored eleven-year process of preservation. This was done in a specially built pool.

The way the boat was preserved and transported

A model of what the ancient boat would have looked like

 

The actual remains of the boat, preserved as best as possible

From here we take a taxi towards the site which many believe is that of the Sermon on the Mount - the Mount of Beatitudes - Tabgha. Read Matthew 5,6 and 7. It is to the north of Tabgha and the hilltop overlooks the Sea of Gallilee. There is a monastery built on the site now and it has been declared a Holy Site.

Site believed by many to be where the Sermon of the Mount took place. The monastery is behind David on the photo.

 

From here we go to Capernam which was a fishing village at the time and the ruins of Peter's house. It is on the northwestern shores of the Sea of Galilee. The town is mentioned several times in the New Testament and Jesus lived here for much of his ministry in the Galilee. The following sign is displayed at Capernaum:

"Capharnaum the town of Jesus. He left Nazareth and went to live in Capharnaum by the sea (Gospel of Matthew 4:14). He entered a boat, made a crossing and came into his own town (Gospel of Matthew 9:1).

"The House of Simon Peter. On leaving the synagogue he entered the house of Peter and Andrew with James and John (Gospel of Marc 1:29).

"In Capharnaum the house of the prince of the Apostles was changed into a church. The original walls, however, are still standing (Etheria. late fourth century AD).

"We came to Capharnaum in the house of Saint Peter, which at present is a basilica (Anonium Placentinus. 587).

"The Synagogue. I am the bread of life (Gospel of John 6:43...These things he said while teaching in the synagogue of Capharnaum (Gospel of John 6:59)."

Some other Biblical references to Capernaum: Matthew 11:23, 17:24, 8:5 and 14, Mark 1:21, John 4:46. 

An octagonal structure from the 5th century was found after excavations, built around an earlier one-room dwelling which is believed to be the remains of Peter's house. Inside the room graffiti in Aramaic, Greek, Syriac and Latin were found which contained the words, "Lord", "Jesus", "Christ" and "Peter".

Remains of Peter's house

Synagogue at Capernaum where Jesus taught

 

Our last stop before heading back to Jerusalem is Tabgha where we visit the Primacy of St Peter's church or also known as the Church of the Multiplication, which is now the Black Basalt Franciscan Chapel. This is the site where many believe the miracle of the fish and loaves of bread to feed 5,000 took place (read Mark 6:30-34). A black rock is visible in the church and was incorporated into the structure of the church building. Many believe that the rock is the place where Jesus stood when he blessed the fish and the  loaves. There is also a mosaic of fish and loaves next to it. Furthermore, many believe this is where Jesus appeared to his disciples the 4th time after his resurrection (read John 21:1-24).

Inside the church Garry and I light a candle for Father Will and say a prayer for the Lord to bless his soul.

The Church of Multiplication on the shores of the Sea of Galilee

Inside the church one can see the rock and the mosaic of the loaves and fish in front of it

We drive through Tiberias, but stop briefly at Beit She'an which comprises a city with a 7,000 seat theatre, arena, bath houses etc. This was mentioned in the Bible as Decapolis. The whole city was destroyed by an earth quake in 749 CE. We go up the "tell" and one could look over the whole of the Jordan valley. 

A glimpse of the theatre at Bet She'an

Viewing the stage from 'inside' the theatre

A brief stop at the Gladiator arena gives me so much more clarity on Francis River's novels where a gladiator arena forms part of her setting and storyline. 

Ruins of the Gladiator Arena

We see the ruins of Jericho after a very brief stop and when we pass a Sycamore tree we are reminded of Zacchaeus who climbed into such a tree to get a clearer view of Jesus. Read Luke 19:1-6. A quick stop at the Al-Sultan Spring in Jericho once again gives one an idea of how big a role water and the storing of it played. We stop briefly at the Yardenit Baptismal Site on the Jordan River, just below the southern outlet from the Sea of Galilee. This is however not where the baptism of Jesus took place. That was on the Jordan River, south of Jericho.

Baptismal site on the Jordan River

Water storage of the En Al-Sultan Spring in Jericho City
 

Once back in Jerusalem Garry and I go back to the Jewish Market and find two seats at a lovely restaurant where we sit and watch the people go by. There are many locals and there comings and goings are interesting to watch. We end up having a stunning lunch - divine fish!



Lovely fish dish at a restaurant in the Mahane Yehuda Market 

20 May 2014

This is the 10th day of our trip and everyone is exhausted. We have the morning free but there is no time to rest. We go to the Supper room which we couldn't see before.

Last Supper Room

Later we do the Ramparts walk or more specifically the southern part of the City Wall Walk. It is amazing up there and one has such a clear view of everything around. It is however quite a walk with lots of stairs to climb.

Southern Wall Walk

Southern Wall Walk

 

 We come across a small museum in the Old City, called the Mount Zion Holocaust Museum. It is dark and dank inside and gives the atmosphere of death. It gives recognition to all the different death camps and it seems everything the victims/prisoners wore were covered in scripture taken from the Talmud or made from parchment of the Torah.

Bags, lampshades etc. all with writing on it and seems to be made from parchment

Later in the afternoon we meet up with the rest of the group and we all go together and walk the Western Wall Tunnel Walk. It is an underground excavated passage that follows the original street level and then enters a series of chambers culminating in a Hasmonean water channel leading form the Struthion Pool. The passage is adjacent to the Western Wall and it is under the buildings of the Old City of Jerusalem and was discovered during excavations and archaeological digs. I see it as a city underneath a city. During the period when the Jews were not allowed at the Western Wall many would sit and pray in the tunnel in close proximity to the wall.

The guide explains the city underneath a city which is the way I understood the tunnels

We end off the evening by going to an Armenian Restaurant in the Old City. Sydney and Dianne join us. Their food is different with lots of sauce...very rich, but lovely.

Armenian Restaurant. Beautiful inside with jewelry and paintings and other art

A hearty Armenian dish with a rich sauce



21 May 2014

Our last day as part of the group, day 11 and we are going to Bethlehem and Hebron. We set out early with Mohammed.

Green vegetation and agriculture as we head towards Bethlehem and Hebron

The traffic is hectic. Hebron is 40 km south of Jerusalem, a densely populated area on the West Bank. We notice the West Bank Wall and find the city tense with many Israeli and Palestinian soldiers everywhere.

In Hebron we find a heavy army presence

West Bank Wall

We are in the heart of the old city in Hebron and we go to the mosque where Abraham, Sarah, Isaac and Jacob's tombs are (Tombs of the Patriarchs). The cave and fields are believed to have been purchased by Abraham for burial purposes. Abraham, Sarah, Isaac, Jacob, Rebecca, Rachel and Leah are regarded as the Patriarchs and Matriarchs of the Jewish people. Rachel's tomb is not here and is believed to be near Bethlehem. The site is now divided into a Jewish synagogue and a Muslim mosque.

Walking towards the mosque in Palestinian territory in Hebron to see the Tombs of the Patriarchs

Having to put on robes before entering the mosque

The tombs inside the mosque

We can feel the tension in Hebron. At the Jewish Synagogue we see the following sign: The Seventh Step - Following the Mamluk conquest of Eretz Yisrael in 1267, the conquering Islamic regime forbade Jews to enter the edifice over the Tomb of the Patriarchs. Jewish access was confined to the seventh step leading up to the eastern entrance. There Jews prayed for seven hundred years. On June 8, 1967, Hebron was liberated, and the Jews returned to their Patriarchal possession. The gate and steps, by which means Jews had been humiliated for hundreds of years, were removed by the Head of the Central Command, General Rehavam Zeevi, in 1969. All the same, many Jews still pray at that site, which has been hallowed by the prayers and tears of countless generations.

The tomb from the Israeli side in Hebron

From there we go to Bethlehem, which is only about 10 km from Jeresulam, but only get a glimpse of the Church of Nativity which is believed to be the birthplace of Jesus. Bethlehem is also the town from where King David came.

Church of Nativity in Bethlehem

Back in Jerusalem Garry and I go for a walk towards the St Andrews Scottish Church. We walk through a beautiful garden and come across the Kalman Sultanic Zionist Confederation House (a culture center) and find a lovely restaurant there, called Te'enim. Warm and friendly inside and we have the most amazing meal made by the owner/chef from Algiers.

Beautiful garden and the view from the restaurant where we ate

Te'enim restaurant where we had a super lunch

Lovely vegetable curry dish. The owner gave us the onion recipe - delicious!

The neighborhood which you can see a glimpse of below is part of Mishkenot Sheananim, which was the first Jewish neighborhood built outside the city's walls in 1860.   It is quaint with beautiful gardens and flowers. So peaceful.

Walking among the houses towards the Scottish church



St Andrews Scottish Church with the flag of Scotland flying high

St Andrews Scottish Church

 



 

From here we walk back and come across an Israeli book festival. Oh my word...I have a feast and Garry and I buy quite a number of books. Where we are going to put it all is anyone's guess.

 

Later that evening, the last evening we go with Sydney and Dianne and have a light meal at the Gent Bistro Bar. We had such a huge meal at lunchtime that Garry and I share a brinjal dish...my favorite!

 

 

 

The next morning we all leave. The rest of the group go to the airport and Garry and I spend one more night in Israel in Tel Aviv. We walk around Old Jaffa, have a lovely meal at a restaurant on the esplanade along the seashore. There is a complete different atmosphere here than in Jerusalem. In the middle of the night we head for the airport and leave to spend a few days in Turkey.